TOP RIDES SOUTH AMERICA: Tocopilla to Pozo Almonte, Chile
It's no secret that Chile has an awful lot of Pacific coast, and almost all of it is dramatic. But for a truly out of this world experience, you can't beat northern Chile.
The high desert of the Atacama doesn't so much meet the coast, but collide with it. The contrast of the barren landscape, steep coastal peaks, and the blue of the Pacific is breathtaking. And thanks to Chile's vast mineral wealth, this route is entirely paved with excellent roads so can easily be done in a day.
Route Details
Distance: 298km
Surface: Paved (good quality)
Fuel: Tocopilla, Pozo Almonte
Ridden: October 2023
1. Tocopilla
The ride starts in the somewhat dingy town of Tocopilla. You probably wouldn't otherwise seek this place out, but it serves as a useful base to start the ride. There are several reasonably-priced hotels, passable restaurants, plus Shell and COPEC petrol stations. There really is nothing to see in town, so other than sleeping and eating, there's no point hanging around.
2. The Coast (Northern Ruta 1) - 168km
Fortunately, Tocopilla is small so it will quickly recede in your rearview mirror as you hit Ruta 1 heading north. If you arrived in town via Ruta 24, you will have already had a taste of the massive mountains that drop you from the Atacama to the sea. These continue in specular fashion as you wind your way up the barren coast. If the sun's out, the contrast between the water and the hills is breathtaking.
At around 168km, this is the longest section of the ride. You'll be cruising on almost always perfect tarmac that twists and turns, and rises and falls, as it hugs the water. There aren't any significant towns along the route, but you'll see plenty of beach shacks and fishing communities. Food is available at various truck-stops along the way.
3. Puerto Patillos to Oficina Victoria (A-750/A-760) - 66km
The small coastal settlement at Puerto Patillos seems to be mainly there to support the local saltpeter mining operations. From here you can continue on Ruta 1 up the coast to the city of Iquique, but the more interesting route is to veer off and take the twisty A-750. It's a steep, 1,000m climb to the desert plateau, cut through some dramatic coloured terrain and doused in enough loose saltpeter to the point you might be forgiven for thinking it had recently snowed.
Once you hit the pleateu, the road shifts you to the A-760 for 50km of brand new tarmac through the empty, red-tinged desert, and ultimately to the tiny settlement of Oficina Victoria, where the new road meets the Pan-American Highway.
4. Pan-American Highway (Ruta 5) - 59km
The final stretch of the ride takes in the flat expanse of the western Atacama plateau. Ruta 5 may be the main highway, but with the high Andes on the horizon and red sand as far as they can see, it's still a sight to behold. The route traverses the Reserva Nacional Pampa del Tamarugal, a protected landscape of desert, tamarugo trees, and historical sites.
Just off the route, near the tiny settlement of Pintados, you'll find Chile's answer to the Nazca Lines - Geoglifos de Pintados. These ancient hillside etchings date back between 500-1000 years and encompass more than 450 individual drawings in an area of about 3km2. Definitely worth a stop.
5. Pozo Almonte
The route finishes at the dusty desert town of Pozo Almonte. It's pleasant enough - certainly way more charming that Tocopilla. There are a couple of decent hotels, and plenty of food options, plus COPEC and Petrobras petrol stations. Pozo Almonte is also a great base for visiting the UNESCO World Heritage ghost town of Humberstone, located little more than a stone's throw down the road.
Route Map
Waypoints: Download GPX