Planning an Argentina Motorcycle Adventure
Argentina is a large and geographically diverse South American country. From the insane heights of the Andes, to the sub-tropical north, and the vast openness of Patagonia and the Pampas, there is something for every adventure rider in this amazing country.
Getting there
For most, the dynamic city of Buenos Aires (BA) is the main entry point. The modern airport is about 30 mins drive from the city centre, with direct flights from major cities all over the world. For a motorcycle adventure trip there’s little reason to fly in anywhere else in Argentina, but if you do, expect smaller airports and probably a domestic connection from BA anyway.
Bike options
Typically, you have three main options for two-wheels in Argentina: hire, join a tour, or BYO. Hiring or tours are generally a better option if you have limited time. For the BYO option, the costs of doing so only start to make sense for trips of around two months or more.
Rental and tours... hiring a bike obviously gives you a lot more flexibility, but bear in mind there may be some restrictions on where you can go, particularly when it comes to border crossings. And you will also likely be require to return the bike to the same place you started, or pay a hefty additional fee for a one-way rental.
If you’re on a short window (or prefer someone else deal with all the logistics), joining a tour can make sense. Although you do of course pay for the privilege of having all that help. There are plenty of local and global operators, so a quick Google should throw up some options to consider. And in many cases, it's the same companies which offer both rental and tours for foreigners.
It is in theory possible to buy a bike locally, but this is generally not recommended unless you have good local contacts and speak Spanish. Registering a vehicle in Argentina can be a lot of hassle for foreigners (if you're hell-bent on buying, Chile is probably a better option). You may also encounter issues at borders - particularly Bolivia - when travelling with a locally-registered vehicle on a foreign passport.
Bringing your own bike
When it comes to BYO, Argentina is probably one of the best entry points in South America after balancing cost, local charges, and levels of bureaucracy. There’s a well-worn path of adventure travellers shipping their bikes, so local Customs are very used to dealing with it (unlike, say, in Brazil). Indeed, apart from Argentina, the only other sensible entry/exit points on the continent are Chile, Peru, or Columbia. Most other countries will come with a world of pain, or significantly higher costs (e.g. Uruguay).
For the shipping itself, you can either send via air or sea. In most cases, air freight is a far better option. The sea freight ticket price will be a little lower, but any savings can quickly vapourise once local port fees are added to the mix (bizarrely, they tend to be higher than the equivalent fees at the airport). The other issue with sea freight is the lack of a guaranteed arrival date. Ships can easily be delayed, sometimes for weeks, whereas with air freight you get a virtually guaranteed arrival date (or worst-case scenario, it's delayed by a day or two).
On the ground in BA, the customs procedures for arrival are quite opaque, so it’s highly advisable to use a local agent to sort this out for you. Your shipping company will be able to give you some advice in this area, but if you’re shipping to BA, it’s likely that they will direct you to Dakar Motos, a super-helpful husband and wife team who seem to have cornered the market on local logistics for adventure bikers.
In terms of the actual logistics, your shipping company will have some recommendations on the right approach, but in general it’s best for you to arrive in BA a day or two before your bike does. This allows you to get set up at your hotel and do things like get cash to pay for some of the Customs fees. Make sure your bike is scheduled to arrive on a weekday, as Customs is not open on weekends and you’ll have to pay storage fees for the days it remains at the airport, even if the functions are not open!
The Customs clearance process itself is pretty straightforward (with help), but moves slowly and is impacted by things such as lunch breaks, workload, and the need to traipse across the airport to complete different tasks. Allow 5-7 hours for the whole process – another reason why arriving a day or two before is the best option.
The fees for all this vary from time to time, but expect them to be around $700 in total. For reasons known only to the owners of the bureaucracy, about half of this fee needs to be paid in cash in Argentinian Pesos while the other half can be paid by card. So, the actual cost will depend on what’s happening with the peso at the time you make payment (see Money section below).
Lastly, all foreign vehicles need insurance to ride on the road in Argentina (and in most other South American countries). It's either impossible, or impossibly expensive, to organise this in your home country. Local insurance is a much better option. There are a few companies which will provide “Mercosur Insurance”, which covers you for most countries on the continent (excluding the northern ones). This is only 3rd party insurance, meeting the minimum requirements by law. You won’t be able to get anything which covers your bike for theft or damage. Local agents like Dakar Motos can arrange insurance on your behalf. And the good news is, it’s cheap at around $10 a month.
Money
Even if you’re no finance industry insider, you’re probably aware that Argentina’s economy has been a basket case for a while now. Despite being one of the richest countries on Earth at the turn of the 20th Century, decades of economic mismanagement by the leftwing Peronist movement has resulted in multiple financial crises, defaults, and IMF bailouts. And more recently, rampant inflation (275% pa+) has been added to the mix. While this certainly makes it gloomy for locals, it does however work largely in favour of foreigners.
Unlike most other currencies, the Argentinian Peso is subject to multiple exchange rates. There are literally dozens used by different industries and functions, but only two are most relevant to travellers.
First off is what’s known as the “Blue Dollar” rate - effectively the black market rate which reflects the real value of the peso in US Dollars (unlike the official rate). Despite being ‘black market’ it is widely accepted as the going rate for US Dollar cash in Argentina. The levels of inflation mean that the rates are changing constantly, but on average, the Blue Dollar rate is at least double the official rate (i.e. you get double the number of pesos for your dollar as you would on the official rate).
The second exchange rate of interest is the “MEP” rate. Who knows what it actually stands for, but this is the rate applied to purchases made in Argentina with a foreign credit card. It's used by both Visa and Mastercard. Although not quite as good as the Blue Dollar rate, it’s not far off. You can see the difference between the MEP and official rates by comparing the results from Visa’s Currency Converter (MEP) and Google’s Currency Converter (official).
Card payments are widely accepted across Argentina, so you should always try to pay by card if you can. Firstly, this reduces the need to carry wads of cash (more on that below), but it also often means things are approximately half price. Why? Because of the quirks of how the exchange rates are applied.
The rampant inflation mentioned earlier means prices change daily. To reduce the hassle of this many businesses, particularly hotels, quote prices in US Dollars then make the exchange calculation at the point of purchase. They’re not legally allowed to charge in US Dollars and they’re also required to use the official exchange rate to make the calculation. As the MEP rate is almost double the official rate, if you pay with a foreign credit card, it's effectively half price!
Despite wide acceptance, not all places take cards, particularly in more remote areas or small businesses, so cash will also be required. The largest note in common circulation is 1,000 pesos (although a 2,000-peso note is supposedly coming soon). As a result, cash will always be a literal wad. At the time of writing, $100 was around 100,000 pesos at the MEP rate. So 100x 1,000-peso notes in cash! You will certainly need to take this into account when considering how you will carry it all. A normal wallet will not suffice.
In terms of getting cash, the first thing to do is avoid using ATMs. Not only do they limit the amount you can get out (impracticably low amounts), you may also get the official exchange rate and can often be charged a hefty operator fee on top for the privilege. Likewise, if you use official money changers, you’re also likely to get the official rate, or at least a poor one. In BA there are plenty of grey market money changers who will give you close to the Blue Dollar rate, but you’ll need high-denomination US Dollar notes (i.e. 100s or 50s) which are in pristine condition. It can also be difficult to distinguish above-board grey market operators from pure crooks.
By far the best and safest way to get cash in Argentina is to send money to yourself via Western Union (WU). WU will give you an exchange rate close to the Blue Dollar rate, so even with their fee added, it’s a great deal. You just create an account on their website in your home country, link it to your bank account, and you can send money almost instantly. With your passport, you then just visit a WU location (they are all over Argentina) and collect your cash. It’s worth noting that smaller WU agents can sometimes have restrictions on how much cash you can collect, so it’s best to plan your transfers around visits to larger towns or cities. It's also important to make sure the name on your WU account exactly matches the name on your passport.
Lastly, carrying some US Dollars as a backup is definitely a good idea. This can help if you find yourself unable to use WU on occasion. In general, it’s best to carry a few different denominations – a $100 note will get you the best rate for currency exchange, but will be way too large to pay for most things on the road. A couple of 100s, plus a few 50s and 20s is normally the best mix.
Accommodation
Argentina has accommodation options for all tastes and budgets, although as you’d expect, choice tends to diminish the further into the backcountry you go.
At the budget end, there are many campsites across the country, but quality and facilities do of course vary considerably. Wild camping is legal on public land in Argentina, but shouldn’t be done in populated areas. On private land, as everywhere, you obviously need the landowner’s permission.
Outside of BA and major tourist towns, hotels are pretty good value overall, particularly if you pay by card and get the MEP rate. There aren't a lot of chains in Argentina, but keep an eye out for ACA (Argentina Automobile Association) hotels, which are often in more out of the way areas and usually of excellent quality. Likewise, many remote YPF petrol stations have hotels attached which are surprisingly good quality and normally very cheap.
In BA, there are more than enough hotels for you to be able to find something to suit your budget, although the need for secure parking will impact your choice to some degree. In the rest of Argentina, for larger cities and towns, it's also best to choose hotels with secure parking, but this isn't necessary in smaller towns. Expect hotel prices in tourist towns to be significantly higher than elsewhere in the country. Puerto Iguazu, El Calafate, San Martin de los Andes, and Ushuaia are good examples, and prices in El Chaltén are extortionate.
Booking ahead is only necessary if you want to stay in a specific place or in more touristy towns. Otherwise, it’s normally possible just to show up, although doing so early-mid afternoon will significantly increase your chances of getting a room.
Roads
In theory, countries in South America follow international norms for rules of the road. But when it comes to junctions and roundabouts, the rules on who has right of way are opaque and often changeable. At a T-junction, you’re normally fine with the usual rules. 4-way junctions often have no signage, so the best strategy seems to be to slow down, check it's safe, then proceed. Roundabouts tend to vary - in some cases, you give way to vehicles already on the roundabout (like at home); in others, you need to give way to vehicles entering the roundabout. As there's no consistency, it's best to see what other vehicles are doing and pay attention at all times.
The other thing you'll come across in many towns are subtly sign-posted one-way systems. And often your GPS device will not have a map that includes this information. Allowed directions for a given street are shown by an arrow on the street name sign. When you come to a junction, you sometimes need to look carefully for these as they can be obscured by trees, parked cars, or simple poor placement. On a motorcycle, you're less likely to get into any serious trouble riding the wrong way up a street, but the cops might take an interest if they see you, and you may piss off some locals.
Argentina is the second largest economy in South America, so despite its financial woes, it still has half-decent infrastructure. Around major population centres you’ll find multi-lane freeways with all the trimmings. Inter-city roads are typically in good condition in the north and centre of the country, but can be variable in Patagonia and other remote areas.
Road construction does however seem to be done on the cheap, so you do need to pay attention even on what appear to be newish surfaces. One of the biggest problems on major routes is the surface damage caused by overweight trucks. This creates concave-like depressions where the tyres impact the tarmac which, in turn, create raised edges which can be particularly dangerous for motorcycles. On dual carriageways, stick to the left lane as much as possible, although keep an eye out for cars blasting up behind you.
Further south, you'll encounter massive variance in quality and type of surface. The golden rule is, just because the tarmac is good now, doesn’t mean it still will be a couple of Ks down the road. Potholes can come out of nowhere, new roadwork can suddenly stop, and natural events can add to the fun. Parts of Argentina are also subject to flash flooding at certain times of the year, so many roads have unmarked fords which often can’t be seen from a distance. And in the mountains, rock falls can add additional hazards for the unprepared.
Tolls
Argentina has quite a few toll roads, mainly in the more populated north and central areas. The good news is, in most cases, toll roads are free for motorcycles. This is true of any state-operated toll road. The exception comes in the form of private toll roads, mainly in BA, where the decision on which vehicle types pay is up to the operator (around BA, they all charge for motorcycles).
As with other parts of South America, motorcycles must use the dedicated lane to pass a toll station for free. Normally, this is on the far right and will have some kind of signage. If it's not obvious at a distance, just keep right and it will usually become clear.
Driving Behaviour
Overall, drivers in Argentina probably aren’t any better or worse than you’d find at home, rather just the dangers and annoyances are different. In bigger towns, traffic tends to be somewhat chaotic, but it’s usually slow moving, so more annoying than dangerous.
Probably the biggest concern is the cavalier approach to overtaking. Road markings are largely ignored – if there's a small window, people will take it. For motorcycles, this means keeping an eye ahead for oncoming vehicles overtaking and misjudging the distance to you as a small object. The problem is exacerbated by the fact that locals only ride small bikes and usually stick to the hard shoulder. This means that drivers who see a motorbike ahead, may also assume you’re on the shoulder, rather than rightly making use of your lane.
Bad driving behaviour isn't just limited to cars. Trucks and buses will happily overtake you at speeds exceeding the limit and in similarly questionable circumstances. So long as you're paying attention, the risk is reasonably low. But it does get tedious after a while.
The other thing to keep an eye out for, particularly on curvy mountain roads and small tracks, is corner cutting. Locals tend to drive faster than they should on these roads and it inevitably means they find themselves needing to cut the corner to maintain their speed. It's best to keep very much to the right around blind corners or use your horn liberally if you can’t.
Speaking of horns, in South America these are used more to indicate "I'm here" or "I'm coming through" than as a sign of frustration or annoyance as is typical in rich countries.
Lastly, filtering (or "lane splitting" to Americans) is completely legal in Argentina. Indeed, motorcycles get a lot of leeway in general traffic enforcement compared to other vehicles. It doesn't mean you should ride like an idiot, but you can be much bolder in where you ride and park than you can be in Europe or North America. Filtering itself is most likely needed in bigger cities, and as always, speed should be kept to a minimum and the onus is always on you to look out for what other traffic is doing.
Offroad
Although much of the infrastructure is half decent, Argentina is also full of gravel roads, known as ripio in Spanish. These range from smooth, well-groomed pistes through to knarly rocky rutted thoroughfares which will test the security of your teeth as well as your suspension. Sadly, a lot of the cool things to see in Argentina involve traversing these roads.
Gravel comes in different flavours, from small pebbles to golf ball-sized rocks that look like they should be decorating a koi pond rather than paving a road. A particular annoyance is the tendency for four-wheeled vehicles to create piles of deeper gravel alongside their tyre tracks. For motorcycles, you really need to be paying attention to these, as traction and stability can change in an instant if you venture into one. Extra care is also needed to keep an eye out for sandy or muddy sections, which can come out of nowhere.
Another thing to keep in mind is that the gravel and dirt roads are laced with chemicals which are used to aid binding and prevent ice in the colder months. These chemicals can wreak havoc on your bike's bodywork. If you're riding on these roads, frequent bike washing is a must.
Lastly, many gravel roads in Argentina traverse water courses or cross dry riverbeds. In the wet season (summer), flash floods can turn these into impassable torrents, so it’s always worth doing your research, both on what’s on your route and current weather conditions.
Tyres
Even if you’re not planning to go too far off the beaten track, there are enough gravel or just plain bad roads in Argentina that rubber with at least some offroad capability is a must. 50/50 tyres are ideal. Riding on pure street tyres is of course doable, it’s just that there'll be times where this makes it very tough going.
Cops
Unlike in other parts of Latin America, the police in Argentina are mostly above board. You’ll encounter frequent checkpoints coming in or out of towns, but in most cases when they see a foreign motorcycle they’ll just wave you through. That said, it’s important to slow down as you approach the checkpoint and wait for them to wave you on rather than just blasting through. On rare occasions you might be asked to show your bike documents and passport, but it’s highly unlikely you’ll find yourself in a “Can I pay the fine to you now?” moment like you might in places such as Mexico.
In Argentina, the cops don’t seem to do much in the way of speed checks like you see in rich countries, but there can be fixed speed cameras as you enter or exit towns. Unpaid traffic fines in Argentina can complicate border crossings.
Maps
Both Garmin and TomTom offer South America maps for their devices which provide decent coverage for Argentina. You can also use OSM or Google maps, or other apps which use them, to navigate around. Bear in mind that mobile coverage is typically limited to towns, so whichever mapping approach you take, make sure if supports offline maps. Google Maps is also a good tool for planning.
Petrol
Petrol in Argentina is subsidised by the government, so ends up being quite a bit cheaper than at home (particularly if you pay by card). Stations operated by the state-owned oil company, YPF, are omni-present across the country, and other major operators include Axion, Puma, and Shell. These brands and other larger stations will accept payment by card, but small or remote stations will probably not.
Although there are plenty of petrol stations across the country, fuel availability can be an issue at times in some parts of Argentina. Cities and major towns are normally fine, but more remote areas such as Patagonia and Misiones in the far north can experience shortages. It's not uncommon for almost all towns in some areas to have no fuel, so it's best to fill up when you see a petrol station that does - you'll know by the long line of cars. You can also tell if an individual pump or entire station is dry by the presence of a traffic cone in front of the pump.
All petrol stations are attended in Argentina, so when you pull up, simply wait to be served. Most attendants will understand the word “full” so you’re fine, even if you don’t speak Spanish. There is generally a low risk of getting poor quality fuel or the attendant having their thumb on the scale, so to speak.
Border crossings
It's likely that if you've come all the way to South America, you're not planning on staying in Argentina for the whole time. So you'll need to be prepared for at least a couple of border crossings. Unlike in other adventurous parts of the world, border crossings in South America are by in large, super easy. In many cases, countries have set up joint border facilities so you can do all of the exit and entry formalities in one location.
In a general sense, the border process involves four steps: exiting one country for immigration purposes, cancelling the temporary import permit (TIP) for your bike, entering the next country for immigration purposes, and obtaining a new TIP. The only exception is Chile, which requires you to also fill out a customs declaration when you enter the country.
The process is normally as simple as parking outside the border station and entering the building with your documents (bike registration and passport). At joint border facilities, there will normally be one window or desk for each of the four major steps. When a border has separate facilities, it will be two windows in each building.
Once you've completed immigration entry formalities and have your new TIP, you then proceed to the border itself. Sometimes this involves showing the paperwork to a final official before continuing; sometimes it's just ride on. When entering Chile, the Agricultural Customs service usually wants to do a quick search, but for motorcycles this is often cursory - nothing more than popping the lid on your panniers.
Food
Food in Argentina can best be described as, “variable”. The country is famous for its barbeque (parrilla) and in most cases this will be great. Options and quality are always more available in touristy areas, although this does come with higher prices. On the road, food quality can be more mixed. Aside from grills, the most common dishes are pizzas and “milaneses”, the latter being effectively a chicken schnitzel. Pizzas are more often or than not poor, as access to the right types of cheese seems to be limited. Sushi is surprisingly common and also surprisingly good overall.
But in Argentina, one of the best on the road foods has to be the humble empanada. You can find these at petrol stations and roadside stalls. With a mix of fillings and coming in bitesize portions, one or two make a great snack, three or four and you have a meal.
Weather
Argentina stretches across a range of climate zones, from the sub-tropical north to the frigid far south of Tierra del Fuego. Being in the southern hemisphere, summer generally runs over the end of the year into the new year, and winter is in the middle of the year. But how this manifests is completely dependent on where you are.
Overall, visiting Argentina for motorcycle riding needs to be done in Spring, Summer, or Autumn. Winter will be unpleasant in the north and freezing in the south. Additional considerations come into play if you’re planning to spend time in the mountains, or deep in Patagonia, which necessitate a visit late Spring through to early Autumn. Although you do need to be aware of the summer wet season which, as already mentioned, can impact roads in parts of the country including the mountains.
Summer in Patagonia also brings with it serious wind, and this shouldn’t be underestimated. The wide-open space and lack of trees or other obstacles allows summer winds to whip up to great strength, making riding tiring at best and dangerous at worst. It’s not uncommon for bikers to have to stop for a few days to wait for things to calm down. And even if you can ride, don’t underestimate the impact of fuel economy that riding into the wind can have.
Language
Not speaking Spanish isn’t a barrier to travelling in Argentina, although it’s obviously far easier if you do. Armed with a friendly smile and Google Translate (with offline mode) you’ll be able to get by in almost all situations. In bigger cities and touristy towns, you’re more likely to come across people who speak at least a little English. But out in the countryside, it’s far less common. And as with travel to all countries, taking the time to learn a few basic words will also hold you in good stead.
Where to go
Argentina has an awful lot to offer, so you won't be spoilt for choice. The internet abounds with full travel guides, but as a starting point look into the Misiones region, the Argentinian Lakes District, Patagonia, Mendoza, Argentinian Tierra del Fuego, any number of high Andes destinations, and of course the famous Ruta 40 road.